Holy Land 2023 (Penny)

The Ineffable

On Friday afternoon, when we were due to leave the house and head to SeaTac, I remembered that my EFM-Grads book group would be meeting a few days after our return. I threw the next selection into my bag, hoping I could read enough on the plane to join the discussion. Then, as we were on our front walkway, heading to the car with my suitcases, the mailman handed me our bundle of mail for the day, including the quarterly Rubric. My reading material for the pilgrimage was set.

Since there was time to spare yesterday before launching for our road trip to Petra, I returned to the nearby garden at St. George’s (Anglican) Guest House. If you count coffee hour after yesterday’s Eucharist at the neighboring cathedral plus an afternoon visit during free time, this was my third visit (who needs more shopping when you’ve found church?) After ten days of group travel, I was ready for the quieter daytime rest, reading and writing alone outdoors in a park-like setting.

The chapter I read, titled “God,” explained the names used for God in the Judeo-Christian tradition, including YAHWEH, YHWH, G-d, etc. Talk about complicated. I am reminded of my preferred name for the Divine, “The Ineffable,” that which is too great to be described in words.

Having recently crossed the Israel/Jordan border at the King Hussein crossing—a process that is also too great to be described in words, I am grateful:

…for my friends, especially this circle of nine pilgrims,

…for water,

…for our Jordanian driver, Mohamed, and guide, Zaid,

…for my US passport that lets me travel freely,

…for cash in my pocket and finally

…for delicious take-out chicken shawarma.

Holy Land 2023 (Penny)

The Most Reverend Dr. Hosam E. Naoum, Anglican Archbishop in Jerusalem, flanked by our leaders

Travel Mercies

Early in the pilgrimage, my friend asked, “Penny, what’s your favorite word?” Today, it is ¡Ojalá!, a Spanish word derived from Arabic during the VIII century when Muslims ruled Spain. Today, across religions, it means “I/we hope” or “hopefully.” I prefer the translation, “God willing.”

Borrowing a term from my time as a camp counselor, today is Change-over Day. Most of our group is already en route to Tel Aviv, beginning the long trek home. Nine of us are extending our trip into Jordan. While we are all adults and each responsible for the continued success and blessing of our pilgrimage, we will also be looking to our leaders, Emily and Steve, to shepherd us until we are back in our hometown or in our next home-away-from-home tonight.

My understanding is that our smaller band of pilgrims will meet our next Arab guide “on the bridge” between Israel and Jordan during the afternoon, after Israeli soldiers finish their scheduled maneuvers in the area.

While our plans seem more nebulous on this day of transition, I am excited. I am leaning on prayer and curiosity, hoping all will go well for both groups. Ojalá…’Iinsha’ allah…God willing.

Postscript

We are in Petra, Jordan! Team approach to leadership was great today with Deborah handling the papers; Erik, Mary and (again) Deborah chipping in to tip our luggage porters on both sides of the terminal; and Melanie offering Grace. All is well.

Holy Land 2023 (Penny)

Returning from the Dead Sea

We celebrated the Eucharist this morning at Abu Ghosh (thought to be one of the possible sites of ancient Emmaus), followed by a stop at the site where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found in 1947. Heads up, you scientists. You know who you are.

We are working our way up from 413 meters below sea level in the immaculate Mercedes-Benz chariot of our oh-so capable driver/business owner, Issam. Occasionally our beautiful (inside-and-out) guide, Ranya, adds commentary about the exquisite desert scenery and history.

Let’s see…

Why would I ever doubt?

Then we floated in the Dead Sea itself,which was a stitch. MANY laughs!

I have been at this relationship with God for a long time now. Sometimes I allow myself to be distant and sometimes close. More and more often, the distance is less and I remember, regardless, God is there. I marvel at how close I feel now. Every time I experience the cycle, I am more assured. This is life at its richest and fullest.

Thanks Be.

Postscript

Since tomorrow is Sunday, one of the feast days in between the 40 days of Lent, I don’t plan to post. Instead I will celebrate and rest. Most pilgrims return home on Monday while eight of us will continue on to Jordan. ¡Ojala!

Holy Land 2023 (Penny)

Blue prayer shawl on rock

Confession, While Waiting

On our last morning in Galilee, it was as if God gave me a prayer shawl. I suspected I was going to need one, mostly in Jerusalem, so I could wear it at times to show respect. I was on the lookout to buy.

I was up early enough to watch the sunrise on that last day by the lake where Jesus had ministered and healed. As I approached the lakeshore I saw the blue fabric neatly folded, lying there on a rock. Recognizing someone had mistakenly left it there, I decided to leave it too, until it was almost time for our bus to leave, that is. While I felt awkward taking it, just simply accepting this gift, I acted against my faltering nature thinking I was stealing away with something. While it seemed to be made for me, and even free, I was definitely messing with the ease of it.

Frankly, now, on another very early morning, I feel unsettled again. Not stuck, really, but in between. Today we go to Emmaus. Thank the Good Lord, I know what happens next. On one level, I ache amidst all this teeming humanity. Will I once again accept this fantastic gift of faith? Over and over again, here on this pilgrimage, God has shown up in big and small ways, blessing me. And yet, I pause…hold back. I ask myself:

Will I have enough energy?

Enough clean clothes?

Even enough money (for God’s sake!)?

From this place it is slightly easier to imagine the disciples, the women. Only human…all of us. The waiting is killing me.

And that brings me back around to yesterday’s long, long line as we waited at the foot of the cross at Holy Sepulchre…waited for our turn to bow.

I didn’t know it then but, God, the Ineffable, gave me this sweet shawl for company through another long night and finally dawning morning. Maybe it will help to just go wrap myself in it and keep moving forward, one footstep at a time.

Holy God, Holy and mighty, Holy immortal one, Have mercy upon us.

Holy Land 2023 (Penny)

Erin and Seyi at the Western Wall

Cousins across three faiths

What an absolutely remarkable day! We visited the Jerusalem Princess Basma Centre, a school for Palestinian children who have disabilities. We walked the stations of the cross along the Via Dolorosa worshiping as we remembered Jesus making this very journey. And we met two fathers from Parent Circle, one Palestinian and one Jew, who each lost their school-age daughters in the conflict and now tell their story as friends who seek peace. Each experience could make for a post in itself.

What struck me most deeply though was in the morning when we stepped onto the Temple Mount, a sacred spot venerated by Jews, Christians and Muslims. Airport-type security checks were required first. My heart swelled as I stood in the coolish sunshine and noticed the cast of delicious characters of three faiths, all descended from Abraham, all monotheistic.

Later, after praying at the Western Wall, I waited in the bathroom line behind two elderly-and-wrinkled Jewish women. We began laughing as we tested the doors to find the next available stall. While I couldn’t understand their words, we related in our quest to find an open door. Imagine our shared delight when this was the first one that opened as I turned the handle:

Sharing our human condition over basic needs with laughter…what could be better?